As I had mentioned the afternoons, evenings and nights can get bitterly cold. Ironically you tend to be less cold outdoors when trekking as the activity warms you up, and also you may have sun on you.
Most tea houses have a burner like this. They don’t use wood though, buy yak dung. Yaks are very valuable – in fact a yak costs more (US$200 to US$900) than the average annual income! The burners hep heat the common areas up a fair bit but they often don’t start them up until 5 pm or so.
The guidelines for the trek said you sleeping bag should be good for -10 degrees. Mine is rated for +2 degrees only so I purchased a thermal liner which adds 11 degrees on which would mean I should be good for -9 degrees or so.
However when we got here the guides said you really want something that can handle -20 degrees so at Namche I hired this huge sleeping bag for 12 days. A very good investment as it only cost $2 a day and it really did make a difference.
This is it rolled out. It definitely did the job keeping me warm. However I still found I needed the thermal liner and slept with icebreaker leggings and top plus socks and hat.
We got underway around 8.30 am and this is the local peak by Dzongla.
Most of the day was a narrow slightly ascending path. It was largely snow covered and slippery in parts. Unlike yesterday when a slip would mean a fun slide down a snow bank for 20 metres, here a slip would mean a 100 to 200 metre slide down snow and rocks. Best to be avoided.
We had morning tea here this amazing view of peaks in the distance.
These tents belonged to a group of climbers who were ascending the nearby Lobouche peak. We could see them in the distance making slow but steady progress.
We then rejoined the main trail up to Everest Base Camp, which is much wider than the narrow paths we had been on.
And here’s Lobouche. Height around 4,920 metres.
Have to love the energy efficiency. Why waste good heat!
In the afternoon we did a quick 40 minute climb up a hill. This dog decided to come with us.
Our destination tomorrow. Everest Base Camp is at the foot of those peaks.
Very exciting to now be just one day away from Base Camp. Was also good to have a more relaxing day than yesterday!