Everest Base Camp Day 4

April 12th, 2014 at 3:34 pm by David Farrar



Today was a long and hard day. We spent around seven hours trekking and did a fairly big four hour climb up to Mongla at 3975 metres where we had lunch. Then we did a quick 35 descent to Phortse Tenga where we dropped back to around 3600 and then had to climb it all back up again to arrive at Dole at 4020 metres.

I had a slight headache at lunchtime which may be due to the altitude. We also all have started to notice the reduced oxygen a bit – the first half hour of the day had us having to breathe deeply – but then you acclimatise.

Today was also the first day that I tramped with a jacket on. Only for the last half hour, but despite being sunny, it is getting colder during the day, as well as the night.


You can again see Everest in the background and our path towards it.


See most of those people taking the lower path. Well we took the higher path. The lower path is the more direct route to , while the higher one takes you up to Gyoko, and then you cross a pass over to Everest. It’s an extra five days the way we’re doing it.


After lunch was at first a lot of climbing.


Looking back, one can see the path we’ve followed.


We’ve reached snow level.


This village here we didn’t go to. It is mainly for sherpas but a few tourists go there. Very cool nestled away against the mountain.


All those tents are for a large party of Germans.


Quite a few waterfall crossings today.


Very pretty scenery, and just around here we sighted a very rare red deer. No photos of it sadly, but was great to see one.


Underneath the snow is a running stream.


More steps up. I quite like the semi-natural rock steps compared to wooden ones.


You can see the waterfall underneath the ice and snow.


This part almost looked like New Zealand.


And finally we arrived at Dole.  Very dusty and dirty so had a wonderful hot shower. Not quite a normal shower though – more a bucket of hot water poured through a pipe – but It did the job.

10 Responses to “Everest Base Camp Day 4”

  1. iMP (2,665 comments) says:

    And as a segue between the two realities of Kiwiblog (and because DPF’s travel posts need some comments love) ….

    “As DPF ascends to Dole, Hone Harawira descends the heady heights of free doles and an eternal welfare feather mattress to the trickier waterfall egresses of capitalist buy-outs and rotund German bribery mongering at his Mana (ahem, caught in throat) AGM.

    “Yes, His worship Hone is to sign a new Treaty. Not with a ‘racist’ oppressive British colonial monarch, but a psuedo-nazi commercial pirate who forever changes his name and hides from justice in Antipodean Isles.”

    Mountains are being ascended and camels swallowed.

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  2. NK (2,078 comments) says:

    Wow! Stunning photos and what an awesome experience, DPF.

    iMP, leave the political metaphors out if it and just immerse yourself in the moment. It’s a magic place and I’m glad DPF is sharing it.

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  3. Stephen Stratford (48 comments) says:

    What NK said. This is great to see.

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  4. RRM (12,686 comments) says:

    This is much more interesting than whatever a little racist like harawira might be doing…

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  5. rightoverlabour (553 comments) says:

    Hi Great stuff – keep the photos and descriptions coming. How high are you intending getting to? Watch the headaches, altitude sickness can be quite severe (Acute mountain sickness can progress to high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) or high altitude cerebral edema (HACE), which are potentially fatal. – According to wikipedia). Most of all enjoy it.


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  6. fredinthegrass (278 comments) says:

    All your pain and effort, DPF, is giving us lounge lizards a wonderful journey.
    You are an inspiration, and your photos are taking us with you.

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  7. Nostalgia-NZ (6,470 comments) says:

    Very inspiring. Will be interesting if DPF decides to share any changes in his perspectives that might occur doing what few imagine undertaking, let alone actually going ahead with what has obviously not been a quick decision but rather a dedicated process attended with little fanfare. He is touching upon part of the NZ character of knowing that, all said and done, there is a mountain to climb.

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  8. Elaycee (4,555 comments) says:

    Brilliant effort, DPF.

    4000+ metres and counting…. awesome.

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  9. mara (1,253 comments) says:

    David, I love your blog so please take care in a Country that health and safety clearly forgot. heh..

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  10. Fisiani (1,188 comments) says:

    Headache is your body’s way of telling you that you should not be there. You are not a Sherpa you are from Thorndon. Using drugs to switch off the symptom can be problematic. Take care.

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